Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of over 400 cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city is no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to explore these stories and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
